A tasting I initially hoped wouldn’t happen. At the scheduled time. Because a competing event was scheduled, which eventually got postponed. So then I had to hope it wouldn’t be ‘sold out’. The result: success.

The much-anticipated wine tasting in question offered a glimpse into the work of Blank Canvas, titled Last Dance (?), choreographed by Ferenc Tar, referring to the sad fact that the New Zealand producer's portfolio at Finewines would no longer be renewed, and the remaining previous vintages were being phased out.

“This world is but a canvas to our imagination,”** meaning the world is merely a canvas for our imagination, which we color ourselves. Blank Canvas, the winery's name, refers to an ’untouched still white canvas’ ready for the reinterpretation of styles, forms, and colors, where boundaries dissolve, and imagination can soar. This was exactly the intention of the two founders, Matt Thomson and Sophie Parker, in establishing a winery where exciting, inspiring, and enjoyable wines could be made according to their own rules and visions, even without considering traditional constraints. Above all, a unique approach: only single-vineyard wines are produced.

The first ‘bonused’ flight of Sauvignon Blanc (i.e., 3+1) featured the Holdaway selection from the 2020, 2021, and 2022 vintages, as well as the Abstract 2017 edition. I consider it unnecessary to dissect the aromas; depending on the vintage, they either show restrained elegance or the more lush character typical of New Zealand, allowing everybody to choose according to their taste. What is significant, however, is that each version is enveloped in an elegant yet distinct salinity, perhaps not by chance, as the Holdaway family's estate is located near the Marlborough coastline, at Dillon Point. The true highlight is the flavor profile of the wines: beyond the textbook-perfect structure, vibrant acidity, and refreshing fruitiness, an almost oily texture and a sip rich in subtle nuances make these new world savblancs truly special. The Abstract is another world: champagne sensations arise from the first sniff, which is no surprise since this sauvignon blanc also undergoes barrel effects, with both fermentation and aging in French oak barrels. The result is a wine supported by two very stable pillars: a lot of fruit, bolstered by tropical influences, flinty, salty, sometimes zesty sensations, along with a rich, massive texture and a long finish.

The second act focused on Pinot Noirs: Escaroth 2018 and 2017, Upton Downs 2017, and Blank Canvas PN 2015. The Escaroth wines stem from the Southern Valleys sub-region, mainly dedicated to Marlborough pinot noirs, specifically from the Taylor Pass, the driest area of the wine region with the highest daily temperature fluctuations. The 2018 was somewhat disappointing, with a slightly cucumbery, earthy, restrained fruitiness suggesting it might be (?) at its end, while the 2017 is still convincing with its red berry freshness and thicker texture. Upton Downs originates from the cooler, windier upper part of the Awatere Valley, so we expected a highly perfumed, lighter pinot. Instead, we encountered a fuller-bodied wine, well-stocked with ripe red and black berries, and tertiary flavors, almost crying out for a good meal. The fourth Pinot brought us back to the northern areas, specifically the Waihopai sub-region. 2015 ‘favored’ low yields and thus clusters of small, but very concentrated berries. The wine, accordingly, is a complex buzz: ripe black and red berries, a delicate tannin structure, still vibrant acidity, spiciness, aging notes, and integrated barrel effects.A liquid demonstration of why kiwi wines are great.

The third segment was dedicated to Syrah. Two Elements from 2017 and 2018, and the 2015 Blank Canvas Syrah. There are two crucial points about Blank Canvas syrahs: 1) the grapes' origin is not Marlborough but Hawkes Bay on the North Island, specifically the Gimblett Gravels, once a stony desert, now a legendary wine region for just a few decades. 2) The other is related to the winemaking technique: in the home of syrah, France's northern Rhône region, it’s not uncommon to add a white grape variety, viognier, to syrah to make the wine a bit more floral, perfumed, and fruity. This is done before fermentation, with the grapes themselves, a practice known as ‘co-fermentation’. Our experimental producers did the same trick with grüner veltliner grape skins, aiming for less than 10%. Notice the innovation behind this idea: they wanted to enhance the black peppery spiciness of syrah with the white pepper character of ’gv’. The 2018 did not perform at its best, with a somewhat plastic sensation amidst much fruit, but let's not judge this vintage harshly. The 2017 vintage meets the heightened expectations: imagine an elegant, Rhône-style syrah that has muscled up at the gym, with a bit more of everything than the textbook example, yet still on the side of balance and elegance. The third Syrah, the 2015, is a varietal foundation: ripeness and maturity, richness and layering, complexity and elegance, all together.

Finally, to disprove the notion that only Sauternes and Tokaj can max out exciting sweet wines, we had a 2018 Meta Riesling. Botrytized, fruity, drinkable, just shy of 10 percent alcohol. A perfect finish.

*Original: Claude Monet – “La couleur est mon obsession quotidienne, ma joie et mon tourment.”

**Original: Henry David Thoreau

https://blankcanvaswines.com/